LFW ROUND UP
Image: Roberta Einer
THIS PAST WEEK, LONDON HOSTED ITS BIANNUAL FASHION WEEK. AND THIS YEAR, WE CAN SAY IT HAS BEEN A TURNING POINT IN THE DEBATE FOR A MORE SUSTAINABLE SYSTEM.
This year LFW has been more political than ever. A few years ago the simple idea that a fashion week could have been cancelled would have sounded delirious and unachievable. This year, Stockholm proved already that the standards we used to have regarding sustainability are changing: they have put their Fashion week onto hold to concentrate on launching a more sustainable alternative. The stakes are high now.
To put things into perspective, a few days before in NY Gabriela Hearst hosted the worlds first carbon neutral show in NY. Whether coming from a designer’s mindset or law regulations, the audience is getting more educated and demanding. Is that enough? Absolutely not. But we can’t deny that the debate for a more sustainable fashion is – finally – becoming part of the system.
WHAT ABOUT LONDON?
SABINNA is famously advocating for sustainable fashion. The brand sells directly to consumers via pop-up stores and an e-commerce site their products crafted with natural material. On the subject of boycotting London Fashion Week, its founder Sabinna Rachimova said she’d use FW as a platform to inform. Phoebe English, in her presentation, has put forward a transparent coat visibly patchworked with the reams of 100% polyester and dry-clean-only content and care labels she is renouncing. She named it ‘In Memoriam,’” “a time capsule for garments we will no longer make.” Her statement, “We Are the Problem and We Are the Solution”, is an explicit call for action. The zero-waste pattern cutting, upcycled scraps from earlier collections, and the overdyeing with organic indigo are part of that.
Designer Roberta Einer feels responsibility together with the “privilege” of being part of the LFW. Over the last couple of seasons, the brand has started to recycle silks for their embroideries, re-dye and reuse fabrics for sampling.
While XR may be calling for a fashion boycott, that can’t always be a reality for many plus-sized women. Birdsong did a special performance on Monday in Covent Garden for LFW taking distance from a usual show. The initiative was to promote their campaign to launch its sustainable new dresses in size-inclusive styles. Birdsong clothing is made by low-income migrant women based in Tower Hamlets, for a London Living Wage. All orders are packed and posted out by a Camden based charity working with adults with learning disabilities. Whether we can call it already a revolution or not, we can’t deny there’s a new, concrete, exciting chance, and we can’t wait to see where this will take us.
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